Traveling Companions

While still living in the Concrete Bunker, back in the dim, dark days when I had an Internet connection but no direct sunshine, Gary invited me via email to go on a trip to Chong Qing with him and his friend Mask. Bearing in mind that traveling and seeing and doing is what I’m all about these days, I immediately said yes… provided the travel days fit within my teaching obligations.

And then I lost my Internet connection, so I have no idea if Gary sent me a response or not. But we do live in the same city and the same country, so sending a text message, or even making a phone call is not out of the question. Or is it?

The Chinese are rather strange that way. They do not confirm and reconfirm and plan ad nauseum, like I need for them to. I actually get unsettled if I don’t have things planned out in advance, especially with regard to my job. Conversely, the Chinese are happy to fly by the seat of their pants. In fact, traveling in general exemplifies that that attitude: you cannot buy a train ticket more than 5 days in advance in China, and a plane ticket cannot be purchased for more than one month out. Long distance bus tickets are bought just hours before the actual departure.

So much for reviewing, revising and contemplating travel documents till they’re worn, like I always do. Would you say I’m a bit compulsive that way?

So, when I didn’t hear from Gary for about ten days, I wondered if the casually extended invitation was going to shape up into an event that will come to pass. I finally heard from him on September 28th, when he sent me a text message asking if I was still up to the trip and if my schedule would accommodate a 7-day sojourn. Being as Sam had confirmed that I would in fact have 9 days off, I replied that I was available and more than ready to go. Gary then tapped out that he would make all of the arrangements. He said he would contact me on September 30th.

He called me on the 29th, asking if I was free to leave on Saturday and if it would be OK to stay in hostels and less than stellar hotels. Of course, I replied. In for a penny and in for a pound with this adventure stuff. That’s what vagabonding is all about, right? At least, my version of it.

I waited all day on the 30th for Gary to call. Toward sundown I wondered if I was supposed to have met him at the bus stop today and he left me behind, or if he had simply gotten busy and not had a chance to call. Or maybe he meant yesterday’s phone call to be today’s phone call? It is so hard to tell with these Chinese!

Finally the phone rang at 8PM. ‘Can you be at the bus station by 7AM tomorrow morning?’ he asked. Well, it is short notice, but I’ve been packed all day and waiting on this phone call, so it is no big stretch to leave my bunker and get to the bus depot downtown somewhere close to that time. I agreed to get to the bus station as soon as possible, considering normal traffic woes and that Saturday was THE prime traveling date for those vacationing over National Holiday.

I got up at 5AM, showered, grabbed my trusty black bag already laden with what I would need for the next 7 days while traveling, and off I go. I thought I would be ahead of the game getting to the bus stop a little after 6AM, but didn’t realize the tenacity of the Chinese traveler. Mainly because I avoid going out on peak travel days.

The bus stop outside of campus was so crowded lines of people 5 and 6 deep stood by the side of the road, scanning the horizon for the next bus. Newcomers walked further up the road, extending that line even further. City buses were already so packed that they weren’t stopping. After watching several buses filled to beyond capacity pass our stop without so much as hitting the brakes let alone opening their doors, I realized I needed another plan. I enlisted some students who were also hoping to get somewhere today to go in with me on hiring a van. We would split the cost and, for 10Yuan apiece, could get to the train/bus station much faster than standing there, waiting for a bus to stop.

The van we hired dropped us off 6 blocks from the depot. Traffic was so snarled there was no hope of getting anywhere near it; walking would get us there faster. No problem. Off we all went, walking while the van driver turned around to help more travelers out (and make a hefty profit for himself).

Meeting up with Gary and Mask did wonders to ease my frazzles. These guys are so good natured and patient and kind. There they were, standing in the rain, waiting at the station for me and not getting angry at all. They greeted me warmly and apologized for all of the stress I endured, and then we battled the crowds heading for the bus depot.

Couldn’t buy tickets for the bus we wanted because we couldn’t get near the terminal for all the people there. Fortunately Gary knows everyone, so he just made a phone call and presto! His friends’ mom, who works at the ticketing agency agreed to buy our tickets for us. Gary would meet her somewhere around 1PM to pick them up. That put our departure time at a little past 3PM. We spent the morning at Mask’s apartment watching movies and sipping tea, even partaking of a delicious lunch, delivered to his door. And then we all got sleepy, but we had to get our shoes on and catch a bus.

Our first stop was Yi Chang, where we spent the night. After about 4 hours on the bus we stumbled into that terminal, already familiar to me from the one trip I had previously made there. Having left myself completely in their hands, I didn’t know that we didn’t have a hotel room for the night until they started talking about where to sleep.

And the whole trip went like that! We had reservations for no place! And, we had no reservations. It was as though the three of us have been friends and traveling companions forever, talking earnestly, laughing, teasing one another, chattering away about just any old thing. Such great traveling buddies are they!

This is the kind of travel I envisioned myself having when I dreamt up this vagabond life. I, a foreigner, am treated distinctly differently than the average Chinese. Traveling with Gary and Mask opened doors that I could only wish to open. Asking directions, securing accommodations, arranging transportation… all of these things Gary and Mask took care of in ‘spur of the moment’ fashion while I stood innocently by. I got into cars after they bargained a fare, I slept in hotel rooms they rented, I walked to destinations they planned and took part in activities where there were no other foreigners.

It is not like I was not consulted on anything. These guys are solicitous of me. What did I want to eat? Is this room OK? Here, take that bus seat: it will be more comfortable for you. Are you tired? Do you like this food? There was a hint of deference in their manner that I’ll touch on a bit later, but mostly it seemed that they were being kind and concerned about my comfort, welfare and safely.

I am pretty agreeable. The only thing I really needed was my probiotic yogurt which we didn’t find until Chong Qing. It wasn’t for lack of trying though. From the beginning of the trip, when I made that stipulation the guys went into nearly every store we walked past and asked if there was yogurt to be had. Bless their hearts! They really are so great.

Now that the groundwork as been laid, I want to spend some time telling you about the adventures we had. Remarkable adventures, considering that, on the outset of this trip I had only just met Gary a handful of times and had only just been introduced to Mask.