What Happened Last Week?

Last week started like any other week: a great chat with my dear friends.

There was one small difference between this chat and other times we’d met on our weekly video call: I could barely contain my excitement.

After weeks of planning, dreaming, and scheming, I had finally bought a train ticket!

Yes, it was to Gdansk. I’ve written enough about hoping to go there, haven’t I?

Actually, I had bought 2 train tickets. I had to come back! I also made a hotel reservation for what was touted to be a fine establishment in the heart of Gdansk Old Town – where, presumably, all of the touristy sites would be found.

Besides confiding in my dear ones stateside, I told not a soul about this trip. For one, because not everybody gets excited about vagabonding and, for two, I was really afraid of jinxing this voyage.

Remember: it had to be put off four times already! 

This time, the oracles lined up auspiciously:

1.      I had wrapped up my Superprof assignment and had a bit of a break before the next one came along.

2.      The weather was on a warming trend in spite of western Europe and the states getting pounded with snow and cold!

3.      There was nothing else going on – certainly nothing as dramatic as an assassination or a busted water pipe!

Quietly, I spent Monday cleaning house and doing laundry. On Tuesday, I attended my language class.

Wednesday morning, I packed and headed to the train station! Finally, I so long to hear that ‘All Aboard!’

That line is from a 1940s song called Sentimental Journey. The second verse of this song describes me perfectly!

At the appointed time, I made my way to the train station, feeling only a bit overwhelmed. I knew nothing about boarding procedures!

You might think that a strange reason to feel anxiety but I assure you it is quite legitimate.

In China, one must show ticket and passport to gain access to the train station and boarding area, and you must have your bag and body scanned. I had packed coffee – my morning essential, and a lunch cooler with sandwiches.

Would bringing food onto Polish trains be allowed? Would my coffee be Gasp! confiscated???

In America, what trains are available generally have no security checkpoints but, should you travel by plane, you must undergo all manner of security checks, including removing shoes and carrying no liquids past security.

In Poland as in Germany, train stations have absolutely no security whatsoever. One does not even have to enter the train station to access the tracks!

However, as my ticket did not list which track number my train would board at, I had to enter the station to check the marquee. That gave me the chance to cast an eye about.

It is smaller than most Chinese stations but has the usual: fast food restaurants, convenience stores and, believe it or not, a florist!

Not knowing what to expect (security? A stampede – like in China?) I had gotten there early. Turns out, with nothing more to do than wait, I flitted between the open track and the station.

Finally, the train arrived! Now a mad scramble to get on board but nothing like I experienced in China.

Car 10, seat 55 – my ticket gave no indication that the train cars would be broken down into cabins containing 8 seats each. Unlike in China where all 118 seats the car contained were arranged in what one would consider an open seating area.  

There was no shouting of ‘All Aboard!’ either; only a whistle blast and the slamming of the doors.

After lurching out of the station, the conductor came by to verify tickets. After scanning everyone’s, he slid the door to our cabin shut. There we were, four strangers, enclosed and gliding down the rails together.

Nothing like the madness of Chinese trains ensued; we all sat quietly, properly and, were there any conversation, it was muted. Even phones were quiet!

I was a bit concerned about protocol: is it permitted to eat in these cabins?

After a few hours, hungry, I broke out my sandwich and chips. Chomping away, nobody so much as gave me a dirty look so I guessed eating is permitted, provided it is done discreetly. 

The sun was just going down as the train pulled in to Gdansk. Seated by the window, I did not know where to look first! Old building, abandoned rail cars and lots... LOTS of graffiti.

Coming out of the train station, I was pleasantly surprised to receive a call from the hotel manager: had I arrived yet? How long till I get to the hotel? There was an 8pm deadline on checking in; should I miss that, I would be charged an extra 100 Zloty.

It being not quite 7, I was fully confident that I could make the 20 minute walk to the hotel.

And I did... in about 2 hours!

First fail: I was told to board either tram #3 or #8 and exit at Akademy Muziska. I boarded the #3, which took me out of town.

I found that odd because the hotel was supposed to be in the heart of Old Town. Maybe I just rode it in the wrong direction...

Going back the other way, we passed a sign pointing to Old Town and promptly headed back out of town! Time for another phone call to the hotel...

This kindly clerk told me I was on the wrong tram; I should have taken the #8. They should have not said to take either #3 or #8!

On #3 and once again heading into town, I got off at the station near the sign that pointed to Old Town. How hard could it be to find my hotel, it being (supposedly) in the heart of it?

Stopping at the map at the start of Long Street, the very avenue that defines Old Town, I searched in vain for Barbary Street, where my hotel was.

Reasoning that Old Town cannot be that big – the map certainly reflected that idea, I could surely find the hotel. So I walked.

And walked and walked, seeing no street signs whatsoever. Probably because I looked so lost, a heavily bearded fellow approached: “What are you looking for?”

I showed him my hotel printout: Blue Mandarin Hotel on Barbary Street.

“Why don’t you use google maps?” Unfortunately, my phone doesn’t work that way unless it is on a WIFI network.

He dug out his phone, typed in the address and pointed me in the right direction. I walked on.

Stumbling across a street with 4 sculptures of Barbary lions, I thought that must herald that I have found Barary Street! Walking that street, I realized that lions, Barbary or otherwise, do not indicate arrival at the Blue Mandarin hotel – and I wasn’t on Barbary Street.

Would I have accepted blue Mandarin speakers as an indication that I was on the right track???

Now totally frustrated, I asked several people where Barbary Street might be. A pair of young women knew; they were able to direct me without whipping out their phones.

Turns out, Barbary Street is not in the heart of Old Town; it is clean on the other side of Old Town and one must cross two bridges to get there!

Furthermore, the hotel was advertised as being in a charming old building with a wonderful view of the city; it was actually a brand new building located in a construction zone and the only view I had from my attic room was of construction cranes.

Clearly, this outfit was not going to get a good review from me.

Once in my room, after 9pm and hungry as a horse, I had no choice but to eat one of my sandwiches – there was nowhere around that I could buy any cooked food.

Once the hungries were appeased, I cast about the room and found that the description on the website was also inaccurate.

·         Kitchenette? No, it had a microwave, a kettle and a kitchen  sink.

◦  It also had a highfalutin coffee maker with 4 coffee pods; nothing else. Thank goodness I brought my own coffee!

·         The advertised complimentary toiletries consisted of a bar of soap. Nothing else.

·         The WIFI connection was damnably slow: I could connect but not access any web pages.

·         The shower only worked in ‘eco’ mode; I had to wash in trickling water.

·         No curtains on the windows: I would be up with the chickens every day.

Oh, well, at least the bed was heavenly even if the duvet was too short – I could either cover my shoulders or my feet but not both.

Time to get some sleep! Tomorrow, we’re going to explore...