Wednesday, September 22, 2010

First Outing

This title is actually a misnomer, for it combines two outings with my sponsor, Sam. The first being on the night of my arrival, the second the following day, to start processing my work visa paperwork. I think I can combine both experiences into one post of average length (for me). So, picking up where I left off on the last post:

I slept until 9PM that night. When I woke up and turned on a light, Sam immediately came by and expressed his concern for me. He had been by several times to check on me but hearing no noise from my apartment correctly presumed I was still asleep and left me be. After all, I had earned such a sleep, don’t you think?

He invited me out to eat, which I gratefully accepted. Even though he had stocked my fridge with a loaf of bread, some fruit and some soft drinks, I didn’t see that as being a sufficient dinner… even if I added my 6 remaining plums from the train and the snacks I had left over from the early morning binge at the train station convenience store.

I realized I was ravenous as soon as we hit the small shopping area just outside of campus. He asked me what I wanted to eat. The answer: EVERYTHING! And with gusto! Of course I didn’t tell him that, I demurely asked what was available, to which he countered “What do you like to eat?” It was like playing gastronomical tennis. As we lobbed those questions back and forth I spied a dumpling stand. I really like Chinese dumplings, so I suggested we eat some. He had eaten at a ‘decent hour’ and thus did not partake, instead he sat patiently and made conversation while I tried to muster some decorum and not shove the food in my face as fast as I could. I think I did a respectable job; Sam did not run away horrified and the other patrons only stared at me because I am a foreigner using chopsticks. A left-handed one, at that. Somewhat of a novelty in this area I was to later discover; not many foreigners in this corner of Wuhan and even fewer lefties (I might have said that before).

Feeling sated by the tasty dumplings, we went foraging for some cleaning supplies and more food to stock my fridge with. Sam took me to a nice market or two where I bought a mop, a broom and dustpan, some dish soap, sponges and Mr. Muscle (the equivalent of America’s Mr. Clean). On the way back, we stopped at the farmers’ market and bought some soy sauce, vegetables, rice and a few eggs. I was already imagining the meals I could make with this bare stock. We got home at 11PM and I started cleaning my little house.

End of first outing. Incidentally, it took me nearly 4 days to clean my apartment with the bare supplies I had. I’m not going to blog about that; everyone knows that cleaning is the pits! I will say that the broom and mop handles are dismally short; again I have to stoop to make use of them. Sigh!

The next outing was more involved as it called for us to be dropped off at the regional hospital. The ride into town took nearly one hour – apparently traffic is an issue in this city. We had to take the bus back the campus because the school-appointed driver had other errands to run. No problem for me, I am up to adventure! Eyes all agog, trying to look everywhere at once, take it all in… it was overwhelming.

The medical examination was rather short: an EKG, an eye exam, measuring my vital signs, giving a blood sample and posing for a chest X-ray. We were out of the hospital in the space of 1 hour. After that we hit the streets and that’s when the real adventure began!

We walked past a Taoist temple that was being renovated; no visit possible. Then we walked through a park whose name I don’t recall. It was not particularly noteworthy other than the foliage appearing limp and discouraged, as appears to be the norm in this particularly grimy town. We went to a bank to exchange money – I was running a little low on Yuan. Off to buy a cell phone and then Sam treated me to an excellent lunch before boarding the bus home.

The only real image of note was a small dog, curled up tight and sound asleep on the sidewalk while cars and motorcycles thundered by, and pedestrians stepped right over him. This little puppy was the epitome of serenity and I sorely wish that I had brought my camera: he was the only picturesque subject of the whole jaunt.

Unfortunately, being away from campus and all of the construction did nothing to change my mind about Wuhan being a very dirty, ugly city. The buildings still bore the telltale façade of Sino/Soviet cooperation: narrow white tiles, narrow, barred windows, no air conditioning. There was very little in the way of charm and no iconic Chinese architecture around. The faces of the people were hard and lean; obviously life is more difficult in Wuhan than other Chinese cities I have traveled to and enjoyed. Or maybe the people had some other struggle I do not yet understand.

Like breathing this air. If that is their struggle, I completely understand. By the time we got back to campus I felt my chest constricted, and it was a struggle to draw breath. I was forced to clean out my nose with a Q-tip as soon as I opened my front door because I could not breathe through my nose. I was appalled at what the Q-tip revealed: charcoal black dirt!

Clayton (and everyone else who would like to see pictures), I’m sorry I haven’t sent you any pictures yet. I’ve not found much of anything worth shooting, and I haven’t really ventured out much. Breathing is still a challenge, now exacerbated by this hacking cough I’ve developed and can’t seem to get rid of. I’m sure I’ll get better; I am a Darwinian creature, at least I’d like to think so. Surely I’ll adapt, right?

If not, I’m in some serious trouble…

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