On Leaving Ezhou

As the clock winds down on my time here I take a moment to reflect on my experiences.

Of course, the people. Their friendliness bears mentioning again. However, there is a twist to the reception I normally get. Usually the elders are reserved and the youths are exuberant toward me. Here, it is just the opposite. I was a bit shocked that an older woman on a trike, a country woman by all appearances hailed me on my first day here, as I was walking toward the bus stop. It seemed she assumed I could speak Chinese – did not act surprised at all when the bird-like sounds fell out of my mouth, and we had a nice conversation. She was just the start of it.

Here I got the reception I long sought: being accepted not as a foreigner but as a traveler. Most everyone addressed me in Chinese. Conversely, most everyone said “Hey look! Its a 'lao wai' (another name for foreigner). I'll admit I got my share of stares. I returned with a smile. The children, though. The children were frightened! The smaller they were the louder they shrieked and the faster they ran away. Of course babies couldn't make many overt manifestations of their confusion but they did stare. I don't look like Mommy or Daddy or anyone else they know or see on a regular basis.

Curious about the reception I got I asked the hotel desk clerk if many foreigners come to Ezhou. She replied that there is a lot of foreign industry here, so at times some foreigners drop in but there are none in residence. That made me wonder: could I live here?

There is a lot to see. This city is water-bound and there are plenty of boardwalks to stroll on and relax. I found several lovely water gardens with bridges to walk through the foliage. Lillies are in full bloom and their elephant-ear leaves nodded sagely in the breeze while  their blooms' fragrance wafted through the air.

Most activity or sites are outdoors. It is such a pity that the temperature was murderously high during my stay. I would have loved to prowl through shady groves, or maybe even park myself on a secluded bench and soak in the atmosphere. For all the industry in this suburb of my adopted home, the air is less acrid than in Wuhan. Buses do prowl around but most stop running before 8PM, the earliest one at 5:30. I could have made my way around town in the evening but risked not being able to get back by bus. I will have to come back when it is cooler so I can truly enjoy everything this little town has to offer.  

At one time Ezhou was the capital of Hubei province. More specifically: it was the administrative seat of the area since the Han dynasty. The name remained until the Three Kings era (220-280 ce) when it was renamed Wuchang by then ruler Sun Quan. That name confused travelers because of the nearby city of Wuchang, which was soon to be absorbed into Wuhan. Thus Ezhou reverted to its ancient name.

Ezhou has a timeless feel to it. I didn't see any super malls, although there are some department stores. Most shopping is done in boutiques or specialty stores: books, hardware and the like. I couldn't tell you how many shoe stores I saw! Clothing was on display from trendy shop windows. Quite frankly I couldn't see how those stores made any money. They were small, expensive looking and, at any given time I only saw one or two browsers. Produce stands abound, attractive with their stacked fruit under colorful parasols. To my knowledge there is one KFC and one McDonalds'. They were not heavily populated. 

Food was a bit of a problem for me. Because of my 'delicate' stomach I was afraid to eat too much street food. Fortunately there didn't seem to be too many vendors. It was pure chance that I stumbled onto the friendly batter cake woman my first night here. I had to walk a ways before finding a hole in the wall  restaurant to eat dinner at. Because of close proximity to Wuhan, Re Gan Mian (hot dry noodles) was the signature dish of the region, but here it is served with a twist. Although I insisted I did not want 'hot-n-spicy', that's how I got it. It seems everything here has a baseline spiciness and hot peppers can be added upon request. I imagine if I had the cast iron constitution that I had ten years ago I would have reveled in it, and all of the fresh fare available here.  

Ezhou seems a bit messier than Wuhan. Although there are street sweepers there doesn't seem to be as many per square meter as in the big city, and they seem a bit lazier. Whereas Wuhan's streets are regularly power washed, here I haven't seen a single water truck. The sidewalks are unevenly cobbled. It is actually safer to risk getting run over in the bike lane or the street than stumbling along on the sidewalks. Here, as at home, people feel free to drive on the sidewalk. However, the bike lanes are generous and, that I could tell were only occupied by bikes, scooters and pedestrians... unlike in Wuhan, where a rider is likely to wrangle with a car or bus in the space reserved for those more defenseless vehicles.  

It is a valiant little town, sturdily marching with modern times but not relinquishing its spirit. I liken it to Talence, a suburb of Bordeaux, France. While the latter is more cosmopolitan, the former is charming in its feel.

Could I live here? Yeah, probably. It is close enough to Wuhan and cheap enough to get to. A train ticket is only 17Yuan; the bus is 9Yuan more (and took more time). It would be kind of nice to live here and head to Wuhan for shopping and entertainment. I think, after a while residents here would get over the whole 'lao wai' thing. Although it is was not done grudgingly or with any mean spirit, I did get tired of the stares and comments. That is not endemic to here; any foreigner traveling in China will have to tolerate scrutiny. Being as this is my travel season, I'd better get used to it.

I'll bet nowhere else in China will that scrutiny be as charming, friendly or sincere as it is in Ezhou.   

First Glance at Ezhou

This city is only fifty kilometers from Wuhan and at one time was the seat of government for Hubei province. A quick glance online showed several sites worth visiting. In all it looked like a pretty town.

I took a bus. Theoretically it should have only taken me an hour to get here but for some reason we drove around Wuhan for an hour before even hitting the highway. Far be it for me to question the driver. Besides, I got to look at some stuff I'd not yet seen in my home of 4 years. Some of it even bears closer scrutiny. That will be for when I return.

We arrived at Ezhou around 5pm, just as I'd figured. True I could have gotten there earlier, gotten up earlier, left the house earlier, but I'm just not an 'earlier' type of person. I had to see to my dear nephew Matthew, who was in a car wreck a few days ago and is still in ICU. Fortunately he was wearing his seat belt so, when the car he was in flipped, rolled and smacked into a tree he was securely strapped in. Not so his friends in the back seat. One of them is seriously injured while the other escaped virtually unharmed.

Besides, I figured: by getting there late afternoon I would have plenty of time to find a hotel and look around a bit.

Speaking of looking...

as you might know, I make it a point to not cyber-sightsee. Usually I pick a destination, look for ways to get there (train or long distance bus) and scout for possible accommodations. This travel season I have to be especially frugal because I did not behave in a fiscally responsible manner all this year. All of the other hotels in Ezhou seemed to be rather pricey but the one I had my sights set on offered rooms for less than 150Yuan per night. That's my kind of place!

Generally, if I can locate the train station I can find my way around any town. Usually the bus station is not far from the train station. According to that inn's site, it was located 4.5km from the train station, and the directions were simple. I figured I could easily walk that distance. Famous last words. 

There is a lot of 'abandoned' in Ezhou: buildings, factories and the like, and long stretches of water and wilderness interspersed with islands of population. Through it all, pavement. There are 'ring roads' – loops around the city, the name of which only changes according to the direction of travel. None of that showed up on the map I  consulted. Furthermore, the bus station was in a desolate part of town. I had yet to see the train station. (When I did, the next day, I was impressed!)

Despite the less than encouraging surroundings I started walking. And  melting. Though not quite as hot as Wuhan, Ezhou is still a suck oven. It took  me no time at all to trickle and my back, bearing my pack, was uncomfortably wet. “It is all a part of the experience” I thought, grinning through my sweat.

The wide boulevard could be safely crossed via tunnel. In this tunnel that also featured a furniture shop with a row of chairs set against the tunnel wall I met 2 gentlemen, from whom I asked directions to the train station. In spite of the heat I was determined to 'adventure'. They couldn't get over my speaking Chinese, so we bantered a few minutes before they told me I should take bus #5. It would be a long walk, they averred. Climbing out of the tunnel and back into the heat, I agreed with them and looked for a bus stop.   

Then, I reasoned: if I was going to ride a bus, why not straight to the hotel? I asked some waiting passengers which bus to board for Feng Huang Lu. One kind fellow said #9 would be the bus for me. So far, so good.

And then not so good. I carried the memory of the map I had consulted online and hotel's name and address on a piece of paper. Nothing looked like what I saw online and everyone seemed to have a different opinion of where the hotel was. I tried walking for a while after the latest instruction to debark and not being where I wanted to be.

By now it is after 6PM. I'm hungry, super sweaty and can only think of the solace an air conditioned room would bring. Standing at a bus stop, scratching my head over all the listed itineraries, none of which listed the street I was looking for, I finally decided to hail  a cab. Five air conditioned minutes and 10Yuan later this kindly driver let me off at a stunning edifice next to a park. It didn't look a thing like the place I saw online. After a short debate on whether to just book a room there and cost be damned I opted to throw myself on the kindness of strangers once again.

This time I approached a man in 'belly air conditioning' mode (his shirt pulled up to expose his belly) who seemed to be waiting for something. I showed him the directions I had written down and asked if I was at the right place. He said something I didn't quite get. Then he added that there is a better hotel just a few minutes away. Within a minute a cab pulled up and he urged me to get in with him.

Turns out he was a cab driver and was just starting his shift, waiting for the off-going driver to bring the car. There was already one passenger in the front seat. The first driver  relinquished the wheel to my 'belly man' and got in the back seat. We then rode around, dropping the two other men off.

I checked the meter: it was not engaged. The three men chatted like old friends and some money exchanged hands. They were speaking the local dialect so I didn't get much of their conversation. However, they doled out praise for my language skills, a kindness I got a lot of while I was here.

In fact, the people here are very friendly! More on that later.

We are now down to just the driver and me. The meter is still in rest mode and I'm remembering the humiliation of getting stiffed by sly drivers who seek out bumpkins (or foreigners) who don't know any better and charge them a flat rate, usually steep for a short ride.  And are you wondering about my jumping into a taxi whose meter is not ticking with 3 men? Frankly, I never gave my safety or being cheated a thought. After the other passengers alit I did get a bit concerned and asked where the hotel was. The driver reassured me we would come right to it. Now thoughts of being cheated assail me.

I needn't have worried. A few minutes later we were in front of the hotel I had scouted online and the fare was only 10Yuan. I had paid nearly that much in bus fare trying to find the place.

An hour later, cooled and refreshed I hit the streets. During the day there were a few people out and about, and they seemed purposeful. Come sundown, everyone ambled around the streets! To my joy I discovered the street my hotel is on hosts a night market where you can buy anything from purses and hats to shoes and novelties. Of course there was food, which I was decidedly ready to partake of. I spied a young idler snacking on a batter cake: a wrap stuffed with egg, meat, sesame paste and a leaf of lettuce: dinner! Too bad I burned my tongue on it. Other than that discomfort it was absolutely delicious.

I have to comment on the kindness of the people here. All of those who (mis)guided me on the buses, those elderly gents in the tunnel, the woman operating the batter cake stand. As I came back to my room today a man rode the elevator with me and remarked on my Chinese. Not just the fact that I could speak it but that I know such colloquialisms as 'ma ma hu hu' – literally translated: 'horse-horse tiger-tiger', meaning 'only so-so'. Everyone who meandered through the stalls come evening time... they all seemed so friendly!

Time for sleep now. Tomorrow we'll go see the rest of this place.  

      

  

Enough, Already!

I've been out of school for about a month. In that time I've taken a short trip to Hangzhou, and nothing else. My plan was to pop off here and there but my passport being at the visa renewal office put a hold on that plan. About 2 weeks ago Sam gave me a receipt for my passport which would allow me to travel. My mind full of battered luggage and dusty boxcars, I started planning.

And then I got the email from China Daily. They were to send my award for being a top ten blogger in China. Could I wait 3 days for the courier to bring it? I waited.

And waited.

And waited.

Got sick of waiting, actually. Mystical sounding places and ethereal sights await me: I can't just sit around and wait. But I did. Another 2 days.

Now I've been out of school for about 6 weeks, and I'm finally going to hit the road: Ezhou!

Stay tuned...  

Some Traveler!

Gary and I got back to Wuhan a little after noon on Sunday. A quick snack of grilled bratwurst and crackers, and he was on his way. He only had 2 days to visit all his friends and take care of his business before the solo drive back. As comfortable as his car is, I feel for him. Twelve hours is a long time to be on the road by yourself.

The extended car ride had taken all my pep and vigor. It was all I could do to prop myself on the couch and admire my shiny floors. After 4 years here I've finally figured out the secret to beautiful, dust-free floors: Pledge laminate floor care. A few blasts from the trigger spray a few whisks of the dust mop and I can call my home Gleam City.

Before leaving for Hangzhou I wanted the house clean because this trip was to be the start of my vagabonding. A few days at home and then I was due in Beijing for a celebration activity with the expat blogging community on Saturday. I had cleaned everything except for the kitchen floor and washed all my clothes in anticipation of only popping in and out all summer.

I resisted unpacking, reasoning that all my clothes are clean – washed at Gary's house. It would only be 5 days, and then I'd be gone again. I even balked at grocery shopping. Why should I? In just a few days I'd be gone again, and I had enough to last that short time.

That's when things fell apart.

China and Google have had a tenuous relationship ever since their issue of copyright infringement a few years ago. It appears neither side is willing to back down and China has, at the very least made it uncomfortable, if not impossible to access any Google sites or functions. That means I was blocked from accessing my email.

That wouldn't have mattered if I didn't have my own computer to fall back on. The university provided computer crapped out. It simply wouldn't boot up... AGAIN!!! For the 4^th time I need our school's IT department to fix it. Unfortunately, this close to year's end they are either very busy or dismissed for the summer. Fortunately I have my own machine, so I am able to get online. But I cannot access Google or any of those functions.

All of my contacts! All of my email chains: inaccessible! Google Chat, the program I use to connect with my kids for everyday conversation: permanently blocked!

And more of an immediate concern: how was I to know when and where in Beijing to meet the expat bloggers? Quickly I logged into my ChinaDaily account to change my email address and notify the coordinators of the change. When they acknowledged the change they also informed me the event had been canceled for lack of planning.

Lack of planning???

I had plans! I was going to meet the Beijing crowd, enjoy the activity and then take off to one of the two Ikea stores in that city. I don't remember how I caught the Ikea bug but I am... 'obsessed' is too strong a word. I am fixated on Ikea just recently.

That led me to investigate the Ikea website. There I found that there will be an Ikea store in Wuhan! YIPPEE!!! I resolved the very next day to go find it. The website said it was not open for business yet but perhaps it had not yet been updated. Besides, as long as I was just laying around, waiting to travel I might as well go and have a look.

That was Wednesday. I had been home for 2 ½ days and still had not unpacked, reasoning I would be traveling by the weekend. However, I didn't have a train ticket yet, either.

In spite of my Beijing hopes being dashed I reasoned I could still go, if only to visit Ikea. Reason asserted itself. I don't really like Beijing and there are other cities that have Ikea. Why not go to one of them?

Because Sam still has my passport: that's why. I could get away with buying a train ticket on an expired passport but I wouldn't be able to rent a hotel room. Adventurous as I am, spending the night on some sidewalk is not the type of escapade I seek.

It is now  Friday. I should have been on a train, or at least in possession of a ticket. I'm still not unpacked and my food supply is meager, but I'm not starving... yet. I should make a trip to the grocery store soon.

Sam finally messages me about getting together. I am due for a blood test to measure how effective my thyroid is and, as long as the hospital is literally a stone's throw from his house, why don't we have a visit?

Let's think about this: I had computer woes and wanted/needed my passport: why didn't I contact him?  Because I know he's busy. Other than a short message letting him know I was safely back and asking if there was anything he needed help with, I left my friend alone. Come to find out, it was good that I did.

Last year the Chinese government enacted stricter guidelines for foreigners. Essentially it boils down to restricting foreigner activity to the visa they hold: if one has a working visa, s/he cannot run a business. Conversely, if s/he holds a business visa but doesn't not own/operate a business, s/he is in violation of the visa laws. As with every country, the people had time to adjust – one year in this case, before being held to the letter of the law.

Victor has owned and operated a business since he came to China. Under these now enforced laws, he is in violation because our school – his sponsor only affords him a working visa, not a business classification.

Poor Sam! Imagine the impact such a breach could cause our school! We could lose our charter for foreign teachers: that would mean that Victor and I are out the door. Our school could have to pay a heavy penalty for aiding and abetting. At the very least it is an embarrassment to have a foreigner flout the law. Sam, responsible for foreign teachers told me he did not sleep for 2 nights, struggling for a resolution.

The visa office provided a work-around: extend Victor's visa for only 6 months under the condition that he transfer his business to another party. He is still welcome to work it but cannot own it. After that time the government will make sure he is in compliance with the law. If not, he's gone – booted out of and barred from the country, and Sam has to scramble to find another foreign teacher in the middle of the school year.

Dean Tu, the school's CEO swung between 2 poles: furious at Victor and proud of me (for being a top ten blogger in China: did you know that?) If it were up to him, Dean Tu would fire Victor on the spot. However, we have already signed our contracts for next year and, as long as Victor complies with the law there will be no legal penalties. I can guarantee you this: Victor will NOT receive an invitation to teach next year. 

It has now been 2 weeks since my return from Hangzhou. I finally unpacked but have not yet gone grocery shopping. I will HAVE to go tomorrow.

All things considered: Sam needing to vent, my needing a blood test, the visa issue made more complicated by Victor: it is a good thing I didn't hit the rails again. All Sam needs it to come bail me out of jail for trying to book a hotel room with an expired passport. Besides, I had to clean my kitchen floor.

Vagabonding will resume as soon as my papers are in order and back in my hands.