Years ago, I had the privilege of attending a Beach Boys
concert. I realize I am dating myself by admitting that but, to my credit, the
fabled Boys were past their prime when I saw them, so maybe I am not dating
myself too badly. Mike Wilson introduced their next number by saying: “I can't
imagine putting a song out called 'I Get Around' these days...”. The concert
was in the early 80s, when the AIDS epidemic was at its height and people were
assiduously abstaining from 'getting around'. Just to put his comment into
context.
This article has nothing to do with 'getting around' and
everything to do with getting around. Getting around Wuhan, that is. And,
presumably, other cities in China – which I can only visit if I wish to pay
exhorbitant rates for hotel rooms, something I am unwilling to do.
In my early days here, means of getting around Wuhan
consisted of bus, taxi, assorted personal conveyances from POVs to electric
scooters to human-powered bikes. There were also bike rentals: green machines
tethered to stands sprinkled all over the city. I never rented such a bike; I
had no idea how to.
And, my first few years here did not see me in the best of
health. Last thing I wanted was to jump on a bike and pedal myself all over the
city.
People made good use of those 'city bikes'. From my bus
window, I could see green Wuhan Bikes rolling everywhere. As I understood the
system, one could rent a bike for a set per-hour fee – no idea how much, and
dock it at whichever station they came closest to when they were done riding.
Such a concession was even set up on campus, near the housing area. I never saw
anyone rent a bike from that outlet, and within 6 months, it was taken out
again.
Early last year, all of the green Wuhan Bike stands were taken
out, to be replaced by a high-tech, sophisicated, blue Wuhan Bike system. By
this time I had my own bike, but thought I might try the new bikes, just for
the experience. They were substantially upgraded from the green bike system: a basket attached to the
handlebars, for one. Another, more important feature for me, was that the seat
could be adjusted. I really don't fit on tiny Chinese bikes.
The new, fancy Wuhan Bike system.
I wondered why it seemed that so few people rode these new
bikes, but soon learned: one has to enroll in the government program, which
permits you to download and install their app on your SmartPhone, from where
the fees for riding would be deducted. Also, you had to return the bike to its
original docking station; no longer could you ride to your destination and end
your rental there. All over the city, the blue bikes languished, becoming dusty
from the same pervasive, persistent particles that afflict my home.
The bikes started appearing last summer, first in ones and
twos, and then in hordes, especially around subway exits and major bus stops.
They are of simple construction: a brushed silver frame with black handlebars
and bright orange, 5-spoked wheels. A bell is integrated into the handlebars,
where maybe a gearshift would be. They are coaster bikes with disc brakes, and
the seat is not adjustable. They are called MoBikes.
A first-generation MoBike
Yes, these days there are 5 subway lines in Wuhan, vastly
increasing the transportation options available when I first came here. And
more are underway – pun intended. Their ongoing construction explains the dust
problem. In part, at least.
At first, people seemed wary of MoBikes. Looking both
enticing for their design and color scheme, and sinister for their appearing magically,
out of nowhere, it took a while before the first brave soul would endeavor to
ride one. Or maybe directions on how to rent one simply hadn't published yet.
One has to download an app, as with the government bikes,
but no one is required to register for permission to ride. The app permits you
to scan the QR code on the bike's gooseneck. A 250 Yuan deposit is deducted
from your bank card – which, for most people is tied to their Alipay virtual
wallet, another app. The actual rental fee is only 1 Yuan, and some weekends,
you can ride for free!
Once you scan the QR code, the bike unlocks and you are free
to ride to your heart's content. When you are done riding, simply scan the code
again, and the bike will lock, chirping like a car's locking system, and your
deposit, minus 1 Yuan, is credited back to your virtual wallet. You can leave
the bike anywhere you choose; MoBikes have no docking stations.
I have ridden a MoBike. Thanks to my friend Shane, who has
the app, and rode one from the bus station to my house, I saw my chance to
conduct research and report.
The handlebars are narrow but the grips felt divine in my
hands, negating the possible shoulder ache from holding my arms so narrowly.
The seat is incorporated into the frame; no height adjustment possible. The
bike feels sturdy: I challenged it as best I could over pavement and dirt path
alike, even though my knees were up to my chest on each pedal upstroke.
There are now 2 generations of MoBikes. The first, with its
orange-spoked wheels and low seat, and the second, which has traditional
spokes, an adjustable seat and a basket on the handlebars, which are of normal
width. I've not ridden a new generation MoBike, but I've seen them.
A second-generation MoBike
These days, in spite of all of the buses, and five subway
lines (more underway!), and the taxis, Uber cars and POVs, people everywhere in
Wuhan are riding MoBikes. Our campus is lousy with them! Students, instead of
rushing out of the classroom to grab some food (or out of sheer boredom) when
the bell rings, are fleeing their seats in order to grab a MoBike before anyone
else. People are learning to ride on MoBikes. Just yesterday, astride my own
sleek machine, I shouted encouragement to a fledgling MoBike rider.
Meanwhile, the government's high-tech, sophisticated bike
system gathers dust.
As an aside: China's virtual world is so advanced, I
wonder how I will adjust to limited social functions, once I leave here. I've
recently discovered the convenience and security of an electronic wallet, for
example. I can use Alipay to transfer money as well as pay at point of sale
locations, from high end shops in malls to vegetable stands at the farmer's
market. And now I have to give it up?
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